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The guidebook issued to prospective cabbies by London Taxi and Private Hire (LTPH), which oversees the test, summarizes the task like this: It is without question a unique intellectual, psychological and physical ordeal, demanding unnumbered thousands of hours of immersive study, as would-be cabbies undertake the task of committing to memory the entirety of London, and demonstrating that mastery through a progressively more difficult sequence of oral examinations - a process which, on average, takes four years to complete, and for some, much longer than that. Its rigors have been likened to those required to earn a degree in law or medicine. It has been called the hardest test, of any kind, in the world.

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All names of fishes.”Īctually, “challenge” isn’t quite the word for the trial a London cabbie endures to gain his qualification.

“Follow that to the end, you’ll come to Dace Road. So just here you’ve got Bream Street.” He gestured down a road where a lumberyard was set back behind a corrugated metal fence. “I’m not much of a fisherman, but many of the roads here are named for fishes - freshwater fishes, I believe. “They call this area Fish Island,” McCabe said. Stour Road sits in a particularly remote corner of the neighborhood - a few wind-lashed streets, lined with warehouses, hemmed in by canals and a highway flyover. We were in Hackney Wick, an industrial area adjacent to Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, where the 2012 Olympic Games were held. He speaks in short sentences, snappy and definitive, especially when talking about London.

He’s handsome, with a wide smile and blond hair. McCabe is a tall man, about 6-foot-2, and he is solidly built, like a central defender on a soccer team. He was dressed for the weather: a thermal shirt, a sweater, an insulated raincoat, Gore-Tex pants pulled over his jeans, gloves, work boots, a knit cap under his motorcycle helmet. For McCabe, on his bike, the wind chill made it feel considerably colder. It was a cold day, with temperatures hovering just above freezing, and snow in the forecast. Over three years, Matt McCabe logged more than 50,000 miles on motorbike and foot within the city, the equivalent of two circumnavigations of the Earth, while studying to become a London taxi driver. Should he proceed more or less straight north and take London Bridge, or bear right into Coldharbour Lane and head for “the pipe,” the Rotherhithe Tunnel, which snakes under the Thames two miles downriver?

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There, McCabe faced a decision: how to plot his route across the River Thames. McCabe exited the A23 in the South London neighborhood of Streatham and made his way through the streets, arriving, about 20 minutes after he set out, at an intersection officially called Windrush Square but still referred to by locals, and on most maps, as Brixton Oval. He began his journey by following the A23, a major thruway connecting London with its southern outskirts, whose origins are thought to be ancient: For several miles the road follows the straight line of the Roman causeway that stretched from London to Brighton.

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McCabe’s destination was Stour Road, a small street in a desolate patch of East London, 20 miles from his suburban home. At 10 past 6 on a January morning a couple of winters ago, a 35-year-old man named Matt McCabe stepped out of his house in the town of Kenley, England, got on his Piaggio X8 motor scooter, and started driving north.

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